Siargao Island: My First Solo Backpacking

Boardwalk at Cloud 9

There are less concern for a male solo traveler but for a female there are lots of safety concerns. I have heard different horror solo travel stories in the past but these days solo travel is now trendy especially among young professionals. Despite the warnings from my friends and family who obviously haven't tried traveling alone I carefully plan my first ever solo backpacking trip.


DAY 1 Arrival

I arrived at Sayak Airport from Mactan Cebu International Airport at 11:30 AM, March 21, 2016. The van service hired by Paglaom Hostel where I will stay for 5 days was already waiting for me outside the airport. From the airport to Paglaom Hostel took is 1.5 hours land travel.

Tina, the Manager of Paglaom was the one who welcomed me. She introduced me to other guests who are present at that time and she explained to me the house rules and toured me around the hostel and showed me my assigned bed. I just rest for awhile and went to the beach, few meters away from the hostel. I looked for a cheap restaurant to eat but I didn’t find any near the beach so I found myself riding a habal-habal (motorbike) going the Cloud 9, the famous site for surfing. I found a cheap restaurant, had late lunch then proceed to boardwalk, in front of the surfing area. I took pictures and I had fun watching the surfers that are untiringly catching their waves.

DAY 2 Siargao Island Land Tour

I have contacted the habal-habal driver/guide recommended by other members of DIY Travel Facebook page when I arrived in Siargao. Luckily he is free on this day to tour me around the island. Regular Siargao Island Land Tour Rate for habal-habal is Php1500 good for up to 3 persons but Kuya Bebot the driver asked for Php1000 only because I was alone. If you know how to drive a motorbike, you can rent for as low as Php250/day, gasoline not included. Kuya Bebot fetched me at Paglaom Hostel at 7 AM. He brought me to a karinderya (cheap local restaurant) where we had breakfast and he insisted to pay for our breakfast. Our first destination was the Taktak waterfalls. I was the first tourist on that morning in Taktak waterfalls. The water was cold but it doesn’t look inviting enough for me to swim. This is not a ‘must visit’ in Siargao but if you have spare time, come and take a look.

Our 2nd destination is the Denaville Resort. The resort is a beach front property and they have available rooms for overnight or long stay. Entrance is Php150 for day tour. They also have cottages for rent. There are also several memorabilia from the sunken ship during the Battle of Leyte that are scattered and displayed inside the resort. The resort has a peace and quiet ambiance. I wanted to swim in the pool but I did not bring extra clothes and our next destination is 1 hour away so I don’t want to be shivering while riding the motorbike.

One of the rock pools

Our third destination is the Magpupungko Rock pool Formation in Pilar, Siargao. You can only visit and swim in this natural rock-pool formation during low tide due to strong water current and waves during high tide. Entrance fee is Php50 and this tourist destination is managed by local government. The place is very stunning; with crystal clean water, amazing rock formations and beautiful view. This is a ‘must visit’ in Siargao Island. Just be careful in walking and swimming because rocks are slippery and the rock pool is deep. Time flies, I did not notice that it was already 1:30 PM. I enjoyed swimming, snorkeling and watching other tourists having a good time. I was starving and I look for Kuya Bebot in the nearby restaurant. We had late lunch together, this time I was the one who paid :) 

While eating I met Jac, a fellow solo traveler and we exchange numbers and we agreed to join together for island hopping on the next day as we learned that our hostels are next to each other. While on the way to our next destination, the rain poured. We continued our ride until we reached our fourth destination. Kuya Bebot brought me to a fish pond resort. He said including him, this resort loved by the locals especially the children. The resort is old and lack of maintenance but there are still several families having and enjoying a picnic. Entrance fee is Php10 but Kuya Bebot knows the owner so we didn’t pay anymore. There are several fishes in the pond like milkfish and talakitok. I had a nice time watching the fishes and the children play while waiting for the rain to stop.

Our last destination is the Cloud 9. Kuya Bebot encouraged me to try surfing but I decline. I just enjoyed watching the surfers. Before Kuya Bebot brought me back to the hostel, we went to market to buy saang (spider shellfish) because I told him that I want to try it. From market, we brought the saang to a restaurant where it was cooked with a minimal fee of Php30. I also bought rice and that was my dinner.

DAY 3: Island Hopping (Naked, Daku, Guyam Islands)

For our island hopping we joined a family of 7. Island hopping rate is Php1500 and it was divided for 9 persons including me and Jac. Kuya Bebot picked us at 9:30 AM and brought us to the market where port is also located.We had breakfast and bought packed lunch for island hopping.

Naked Island

Our first island was the Naked Island. Naked Island is a sandbar, there’s no shade and vegetation available. The beach is great with white fine sand but the scorching sun was not bearable. I just took some photos and went back on the boat and waited for the others.

Dako Island

Second destination was the Dako Island, Dako means big, it’s the biggest island among the 3 islands included in the tour. Dako Island has a great white sand beach for swimming. There’s a docking fee of Php100/boat. I paid Php50 for Jac and I and the other Php50 was paid by the family. There are available huts/cottages in the island but I and Jac just laid our beach towels under the tree. In the other side of the island is also a great surfing spot. There are several stores in the island operated by the local people who live in the island. You can also bring your fresh seafood and meat and there’s a restaurant that can grilled or cooked in the island for a minimal fee. There’s is no electricity in the island, some locals who has means rely to solar power and generator.

Guyam Island

Our third and last destination is the Guyam Island. Just like Naked and Dako Islands, Guyam Island has a nice white beach also. The island is adorned by many coconut trees. It’s a private property and entrance fee is Php10/person only. The swimming area might be small but still lovely. I wanted to stay here until sunset but the family we’ve joined decided to leave at 5 PM because they are still going to visit the Cloud 9.

DAY 4 Bucas Grande Island/Sohoton Cove National Park

Bucas Grande Island or the Sohoton Cove National Park is part of the Siargao Islands. Kuya Bebot picked me at 6AM and brought me to General Luna market where I met the couple Kath and Carlo. They are also guests of Kuya Bebot. We shared the boat rental from General Luna to Bucas Grande. Boat rental is Php4000 but we’ve got discount courtesy of Kuya Bebot and we paid Php3200 only. We bought our fish, meat and fruits before leaving to Bucas Grande. From General Luna it took us 2.5 hours before we reached our first destination.

Our first activity was spelunking in Crystal Cave. Entrance fee is Php35 including helmet (stinky) and flashlight. Guide fee is voluntary. Before our spelunking begins our guide oriented us the dos and don’ts inside the cave, mostly the don’ts. Crystal cave has a wide opening and it’s a like a big dark room with stalagmites and stalactites. There are no narrow pathways for a level-up spelunking. I suggest skipping this tour.

After spelunking we proceed to the registration area for Sohoton Lagoon tour. The tour rates depend on the size of our group. For our group we availed the Tour A and B or the Sohoton Lagoon tour and Jellyfish Sanctuary tour. We paid Php1400 all and divided it to 3. The big boat is not allowed to enter the Sohoton Lagoon due to narrow opening. Tourists need to transfer to smaller boat without roof. There are different persons in charge for the collecting ofpayment and dispatching of boats. They are organized and locals are nice. Since it’s a Holy Week, there were long queue before we were dispatched.

one of the species of sting less jelly fish (photo by Jac)

After our Sohoton Lagoon our boatmen brought us to another place where we need to transfer to a non-motorized boat for sting less jellyfish sanctuary tour. There was a long queue again so be patient as the boat can only accommodate two persons. It was not season yet for the sting less jellyfish therefore there were only few of them but I still had a good time watching over them. Season of sting less jellyfish is from June-September. After our tour we asked our boatman to bring us to the restaurant where our food is already waiting, Kuya Jose our boatman from General Luna has it cooked already.

at Tara Club Resort

On the way back to to main island of Siargao, we dropped by at Tara Club Resort for some photo. Words aren't enough to describe how beautiful the Bucas Grande, Sohoton Lagoon and Stingless Jellyfish Sanctuary. The place is magical for me. Just imagine the tall limestones, the extensive labyrinth of lagoons and crystal clear waters. The long boat trip and every penny we’ve spent are all worth it.

DAY 5 Biking going to Cloud 9 / Mangrove Forests and Sugba Lagoon in Del Carmen, Siargao

For my last day in Siargao, I joined the tour going to Mangrove Forest and Sugba Lagoon organized by Paglaom Hostel for Php1500 all-in package. Since our departure is 10AM I decided to join Jac for biking early in the morning. We rented a bike going to Cloud 9 from General Luna, normally bike rental is Php150/day but we asked the owner of the bikes if we can pay half only since we will be using it for 3 hours only, they agreed and we were happily ride the bike going to the church first. We had quick visit in the church then we went to Cloud 9 and back to hostel before 10AM. Biking was fun and relaxing.

Sugba Lagoon

With fellow guests in Paglaom Hostel we left at 10AM, General Luna to Del Carmen is 1.5hours travel time via van. From the Mangrove Protection and Information Center we rented 2 boats for our group. The boat trip was fun itself and takes up to 45 minutes. We passed the protected mangrove area and several small communities that their houses are built on stilts. There are also white sandy beaches.

I was surprised to see that’s there’s a two-story pavilion where you can rent near the lagoon. Our group occupied the 2nd floor of the pavilion. The lagoon is stunningly beautiful with clear and calm water. It’s a post card perfect photo. I just wished I had rented a stand-up paddle board. The other group has one but there were many of us wanted to borrow it for picture purposes so I was just contented watching them.

sunset cruise

We left the lagoon at around 5:00 PM. I enjoyed the boat ride more going back to the Mangrove Protection and Information Center because I occupied the seat of our captain boatman where I freely took videos while sunset is my background.

Overall I have enjoyed my first solo backpacking trip. I learned a lot and I get to know my self well. I will plan my next project of solo backing trip outside of my beloved country Philippines.